Greystoke Mahale sits on a pristine, white sandy beach overlooking the turquoise water of Lake Tanganyika in far-flung western Tanzania. The forested slopes of the 8000 ft Mahale Mountains range rise behind and, across the water, you can often see the mountains of the Congo, some 60kms away. The camp has just six wood and thatch bandas set on the edge of the forest line at the base of the mountains. Each one has an en-suite bathroom - accessible by a short boardwalk - with hot and cold running water, strong showers and flush toilets, dressing room and upstairs chill-out deck. The main dining banda is the only structure on the beach and it's the focal point of camp. Your days can start there, eating breakfast whilst waiting to hear news of the whereabouts of the chimps and deciding what to do with your day. There are many choices as well as the chimp trekking: fishing, boat trips down the lake, gentle forest walks or a lazy afternoon on the beach. Evenings end with sundowners on the rocks of the headland, where drinks are served around the lamp-lit bar whilst the mountains, rising behind camp, disappear into the darkness. Photos courtesy Greystoke Mahale.