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Gone Wild in Patagonia
Headed south in November for summer in Buenos Aires, I traveled to Argentina and Chile to meet our local guides and outfitters, and to make a reconnaissance of our Wildland Adventures in Patagonia. My route takes me from Buenos Aires south following our Best of Patagonia itinerary, crossing over the border in the Andes into Torres del Paine, then north to the Lakes District and back home from Santiago. Whether you are coming to Chile or Argentina first, if you are going that far, it's worth making the whole loop circling around Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego flying into one capital city and back home from the other.
Buenos Aires-Karen Peterson, one of our lead guides in Buenos Aires, picks me up at the airport like I'm her long lost friend visiting her hometown-and my journey has begun! My first recommendation is to plan a full day in Buenos Aires and let one of our local guides take you around this "Paris of South America." Walking through the streets of the city with a local we stumbled upon tango dancers in the streets, puppeteers re-enacting the history of Buenos Aires, and musicians playing the Bandoneon. I also took in a tango show that night in this lively city with a callous political history made beautiful by the people who have a joie de vivre for life and the city they call home. When you go to a tango show, the upgrade VIP tickets are well worth the upstairs view and ala carte menu.
Peninsula Valdes-Chile and Argentina are so vast, we often don't send one Wildland guide to accompany our travellers throughout the itinerary, but rather we work with local guides in each region which lends a dimension of local character and expertise to every region of our trips. My next new friend I meet upon arrival in Trelew is Richard who immediately greets me with a smile and a hug. At first glance, driving through the vast, dry pampas towards the coast to Punta Tombo, it's hard to imagine I'm headed to the most important breeding colony of the Magellanic Penguin in South America. Between September and April, up to half a million penguins come here to incubate their eggs, and prepare their offspring for migration. Parents stand in front of their nests protecting their young from birds and other predators, and occasionally one adult waddles by to the sea for food. It's amazing how close we get and I am greeted by a very curious penguin seemingly as intrigued by me as I am of him! Further down the road in Peninsula Valdes we find 5,000 pound Elephant Seals bathing in the sun on the shores of the Atlantic. And just when I think the wildlife cannot get any greater (or larger as the case may be), we board a zodiac and encounter a Southern Right Whale breaching out of the water! As we get closer, the sheer size of these extraordinary creatures takes my breath away-the calf, traveling with his mother, stretches longer than our 25 foot boat. It was impossible to fit these beasts into the frame of my camera because they came so incredibly close to us! Truly breathtaking!
Ushuaia-The most southern city in the world, Ushuaia, is a boom town and the launching point for most trips to Antarctica. Our guides here are youthful and energetic outdoors-people who are eager to share their knowledge of the endemic flora and fauna and let us in on the quiet serenity of special wild areas of Tierra del Fuego far away from the bustling city. All of our Patagonia trips get you into the wild lands of Chile and Argentina where traditional customs originating from the gaucho culture still predominate. Instead of chaps, a big hat and neck scarf, my modern day Wildland Adventures gaucho is a dread-locked, professional guide who nonetheless offers me mate, the traditional and popular caffeinated beverage made from Yerba mate (mate is to Argentines as coffee is to Seattleites). Striving to do as the locals, I carefully listen to his detailed instructions on how one drinks mate...I should not say, "thank you," until I do not want any more and one must never, ever touch the "bombilla" (filtered straw) once the mate is served! So much decorum for such a simple drink!
So, the next several days I found myself sipping my mates traveling through Tierra del Fuego kayaking, hiking, and bird watching. One day we hiked in Tierra del Fuego National Park and made a Beagle Channel tour where I could see the Pacific Ocean to my right, the Atlantic to my left, and in front of me sea lions and penguins competing for the spotlight!
Calafate-Nestled on the edge of the southern Andean range dominated by the massive Patagonia Ice Cap, El Calafate is a region with ongoing new tourism developments with lots of old world charm. Though Calafate is best known for the great Perito Moreno Glacier, I find myself mesmerized by the old world culture of Patagonia where gauchos trot on horseback amongst the fancy cars and busy youth of Calafate. We typically stay outside of the town of El Calafate in boutique lodges or local-style accommodations like Estancia Alice, a working ranch and guest house. I was introduced to one of the gauchos who showed me sheep shearing; in less than a minute from start to finish, a blanket of wool covers the floor as the shaved sheep trots off free as a bird and ready for summer.
On my way to explore Perito Moreno, one of only three advancing glaciers in the world, I was surprised by the arid Patagonian landscape of Glacier National Park. Our guides stop at any inspiring moment to photograph the contrasting Patagonia steppe framed by glaciers of the Patagonian ice-cap. Every time we stopped was another opportunity for Carlos to share his vast knowledge of the formation of the Andes, settlement of Calafate, and the ever expanding Perito Moreno Glacier. We motored across the lake to put on crampons for the amazing glacier walk, easy and safe, across the base of the massive glacier. In the early days, Carlos camped at Perito Moreno Glacier for three days watching, but mostly listening to the thundering rupture of house sized slabs of ice collapsing into the lake.
Torres del Paine-Although I grew up in the mountains of Colorado and have trekked through 20,000 foot peaks in Peru, the towering peaks of Torres del Paine are staggeringly beautiful-creating the best place in the world for hiking! Altitude is not a factor when trekking in Torres del Paine, and none of the hills are steep, except perhaps for the optional full-day hike to the base of the famous "Torres del Paine." What makes these craggy peaks so spectacular is that they start at only 2,500' elevation and rocket up to the sky as high as 8,500'. Although we offer itineraries featuring day hikes based from lodges, I've come here to trek our 4-day Torres del Paine Base Camp Trek, also known as the "W" route staying at the rustic but cozy refugios ending at the permanent, deluxe Las Torres Eco-camp at Patagonia. For those who want to go first class in Patagonia we always recommend the premier accommodations and guided excursions of Explora Lodge, which also has the same high level of accommodations and exceptional guided excursions in the Atacama Desert and Easter Island.
My Colorado upbringing has prepared me for the ever-changing weather conditions in the mountains, but nothing as erratic and powerful as the turbulent climate in one day at Torres del Paine. Trekking along the base of Cerro Paine Chico, I look across Lago Nordenskjold as the water is being pulled from the lake into the air, "the broom of the Gods," our guide Eduardo translates from Spanish. I'm prepared to take cover behind a tree to brace against the strong winds, but Eduardo coaxes us to keep trekking and enjoy the power of Mother Nature; after all, this is why we came to Patagonia! Moments later, the sun appears through the clouds revealing the snow-capped peaks and reflecting the aqua-green color of Lago Nordenskjold. It's shared moments like this that brought our group of ten trekkers together as one sharing this lasting memory of beauty and awe.
Lakes District-I arrive in the peaceful town of Puerto Montt-just in time for some much needed relaxation after my arduous journey in Torres del Paine. I am welcomed upon my arrival by my local guide, Miguel, a sharply dressed Chilean who is keen on showing me the "green" side of Chile. Everywhere I look I see snow-capped volcanoes, a rich agricultural land of green rolling hills surrounded by lush forests and the dark, calm water of Lake Lllanquihue. First the home of native Mapuche Indians, this region was then settled by German immigrants in the 1800's and the history is quite prevalent today. The buildings in town are reminiscent of the Bavarian style architecture.
Miguel brings me to a welcome reception hosted by a local Chilean family-I have the opportunity to get to know Miguel and my host, Juan-Carlos. Our hosts on my Lakes District Chile tour are anxious to hear all about our travelers and they are so eager to talk about the beauty and outdoor activities that the Lakes District has to offer. Our dinner of salmon, farm fresh vegetables and local vino lasts for hours and we end up outside sitting by the fire gazing at the stars. Juan-Carlos points out the Southern Cross and I begin to ponder that my trip to Patagonia in the Southern Hemisphere will soon be coming to a close!
As my time in the Lakes District nears an end Juan-Carlos insists, "You must change your flight...you have to stay for at least one more day!" To no avail, I'm ready to see the other major city of southern South America!
Santiago-Santiago is a large city consisting of 32 different municipalities, resulting in 32 mayors in one metropolis! As I drive down one of the main boulevards, I noticed that the name of the street changes six times before I reach my hotel. This convoluted system is prevalent throughout Santiago. Starting in the beautiful old central district, a half day city tour of Santiago is a great way to see the city's many sides. The commercial district is especially lovely to walk around to appreciate the architecture.
Spend a little extra time in and around Santiago and we highly recommend a wine tour of the surrounding vineyards. And, consider the amazing Historic Memory Tour of Santiago: a native English-speaking expert takes you back through Chile's political history including a memorial honoring those who "disappeared" during the 17-year Pinochet regime, a visit to the Victor Jara Foundation, namesake to one of Chile's greatest songwriters who was executed in Santiago's National Stadium just days after the September 11, 1973 coup, and concluding with a visit to the Villa Grimaldi Peace Park, one of the principal torture centers during the Pinochet era.
For a complete listing of our travel and tours of Chile and Argentina click here:
Wildland Adventures Chile tours
Wildland Adventures Argentina Tours
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