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I flew into Lima on my birthday. I was born in this city and my sister and I spent much of our childhood years chasing ice cream street vendors and prancing around in starched school uniforms. With each visit, the memories come flooding back. There wasn't much time to reminisce about the past because almost immediately I was on a flight to Cusco.
You may struggle to catch your breath in Cusco, but it is not only because of the 11,000 foot altitude! There is so much to see and do here. It is filled with a head-spinning array of crafts, colorful plazas, enchanting markets, impressive cathedrals and historical buildings. Even with all of this, one of my favorite things to do is to stroll through the narrow cobble-stone streets and imagine what it must have been like when it was the capital of the Incan Empire. These days pleasant tourist shops line the plazas and traditional Peruvian flute music seeps through the cracks of small taverns and restaurants, calling visitors inside.
My tour of Cusco and the surrounding area was superb. My guide Julio was extremely knowledgeable and made each story come to life through his zeal and sense of humor. This was a wonderful introduction to the journey I was about to embark on.
There is no better way to live and breathe Inca culture than by trekking the Inca Trail. This unevenly paved trail can be challenging at times (with the highest path reaching 13,770 feet!). However, vistas of snow peaked mountains and plummeting valleys make each breathless step well worth the struggle. A first-rate guide and cheerful porters make all the difference. In order to preserve the trail, Peru has limited the number of hikers allowed on the trail and requires all to go with accredited guides. Wildland Adventures has been working with some of the best guides in the area since the 1980s. My guide, Narciso, has completed the trek over 175 times. He was more than eager to show me each budding orchid along the path and I could see his enthusiasm intensify as we reached each Inca ruin. He is fluent in Quechua (Peru's indigenous language), therefore friendly conversation ensued with each passer-by and we were able to visit a few local homes along the way, bearing gifts of fresh bread and trail mix.
A cup of hot coca tea was brought to my tent at 5:45 each morning, just in time for viewing a hazy orange sunrise. A tub of steaming water to wash my face, followed by a hearty breakfast, and I was ready to begin another day of walking and exploring.
Four exhilarating days later we reach Intipunku (aka: The Gate of the Sun). From this spot, Machu Picchu is a fabulous sight to behold. The final reward for the 30 miles of trekking came in the form of a picture-postcard view of one of the most well known archaeological sites in the world. We encountered some rain as we approached, but since much of the time you are above the clouds, they drift by as quickly as they appeared. Fog and clouds only add to the enchanting mystery of this unique site. I have seen Machu Picchu in rainy weather and also under the glow of glorious sunshine and each has its rewards. The mathematical and scientific methods that were used to build such a spiritual place will never cease to amaze me. Once again my guide helps me to discover why this is such a special place, one you will never forget and will long to return to after you have left it behind.
I had a couple of days to relax in the serene Urubamba Valley after the trek. This is a great place to soak up the cultures and traditions that veil this region. I thoroughly enjoyed my day trip to the village of Patacancha, where I visited a school and had the chance to interact with the children there.
Dressed in their traditional colorful clothing, they jumped around my feet, as curious about me as I was about them. I asked their teacher about the lessons they were currently learning and the kids had an opportunity to ask me many questions as well. Many of the students travel a great distance by foot to reach class each morning and it was heartwarming to know that education is slowly becoming an imperative part of their lives. We also visited Nilda Callaaupato at The Center for Traditional Textiles. This organization is keeping tradition alive by educating Chinchero women on the complicated art of textile weaving. I was stunned by the demonstrations of this intricate process. The magnificent works of art that are sold are tempting to say the least.
The wet season was just ending in Peru and rain from the previous months had run down the hillsides to meet the Urubamba River, running fast and wild as it cuts through the valley floor. Our guide, Manuel was determined to help us run this class 3 river. The rapids were intense at this time of year, but each was followed by a sporadic calm and we would find ourselves floating peacefully down the river, awaiting the next sequence of rolling water. Along the way, Manuel pointed out Inca terraces and told us why he would never live anywhere else in the world.
Although it is very rare to see tapirs, large snakes or the spotted jaguar, the Tambopata Rainforest does not disappoint even the wildest imagination. I spent 2 nights at Posadas Amazonas Lodge and 2 at TRC (The Tambopata Research Center). My guide, Silverio, was a native of the Esa-eja tribe. Being a former hunter for his tribe he knew all the places to look for animals on the forest floor, and birds and monkeys high up in the trees. We spotted brightly colored toucans, along with many other bird species. Caiman and giant river otters were floating along Tres Chimbadas Lake and capuchin and spider monkeys were swinging in the canopy above. On our night walk, we staggered through the darkness of the jungle, listening to toads and shining our flash lights on colorful snakes and many other nocturnal animals. It was fascinating to learn about the research being done to preserve the macaws of this region. The birds that were raised at the Research Center often come back to visit, and even though they steal pancakes and fruit at breakfast, they are affectionately called chicos and seem to be part of the family of TRC.
After my jungle experience I was quickly back at high altitude. At about 12,000 feet a luminescent sun twinkles on an infinite horizon of blue as I make my way to the floating Uros Islands. These artificial reed islands are easy to access from the port of Puno and it is intriguing to see how the islanders live their lives here. They are set on Lake Titicaca, the largest lake in South America and the highest above sea level with passenger boat service in the world. I spent the night on the island of Taquile, which is a real island (not made of floating reeds) about 15 miles from Puno. It is a beautiful, tranquil place where the stars shine twice as bright and the sun rises over Bolivia's snowcapped Cordillera on the other side of the lake. Many of the orange-dusted hills display Inca terraces and there are small ruins at the top of the highest hill. The Quechua-speaking islanders here are distinct and the clothes they wear tell a story of social symbolism. My guide, Ana, was able to bring that story to life as I learned about the traditions that each piece of fabric holds.
New to Lake Titicaca (and to Wildland Adventures itineraries!) is a kayaking program, run by specialist guides from the peninsula of Llachon. Paddle through stunning scenery for 1-2 hours or on a trip of 2-3 days! Combine this with mountain biking and island trekking and you have an exuberant multi-sport itinerary. I found kayaking to be an invigorating experience as our guide rattled off fascinating facts about this crystal-clear lake.
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