Going Wild in the Galapagos

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	Going Wild in the Galapagos By Sherry Howland May 1, 2003

	Sea lion resting in a tree, only in Galapagos!

I have an obsession with Ecuador
Tiny Ecuador, no larger than the state of Nevada has it all. Think of it divided into 4 distinct north/south bands: The lush rainforest and indigenous cultures of the jungle in the Oriente (east) The Andean spine is the seat of the capital city of Quito , the world-famous Otavalo Indian market, and elegant 300+ year old Spanish haciendas-reborn as boutique hotels. The western slope of the Andes is shrouded in cloud forests and cascading waterfalls, lush habitat for wild orchids and hundreds of exotic bird species. And 600 miles off shore, the Galapagos archipelago continues to evolve, to educate mankind in evolution, and the sheer, stark beauty of Mother Nature at work. It was here that I found myself in conservation meetings and yacht inspections for nearly two weeks in May.

Conservation Business in Galapagos
As Wildland Adventures South America Program Director I love the fact that I not only plan trips, but I am directly involved in projects that affect positive change in our destinations. Wildland Adventures was a founding corporate member of the International Galapagos Tour Operators Association, and I presently serve on the Board of Directors. IGTOAs mission is to preserve the Galpagos Islands as a unique world heritage site that will provide enjoyment, education, adventure and inspiration to present and future generations of travelers. Member organizations act as a liaison between the visitors to Darwins Enchanted Islands and the business interests who serve these guests. Our membership includes U.S.- and Canada-based tour operators and yacht companies along with Ecuadorian partners, such as hotels, small yacht owners, and local Galapagos guides. During our annual meetings, IGTOA members tackle issues ranging from environmental certification programs for yachts to elimination of invasive species, to refitting and repairing engines on anti-poaching Park patrol boats, to improving the educational opportunities for local students in Galapagos. Perhaps one of the most important benefits to our clients as an active, founding member of IGTOA is our constant vigilance to monitor small yacht safety and comfort for passengers.

Sherry discusses operations with Dr. Aldo Salvador, President of the Quito-based Galapagos Tour Operators Association.

Highlights of our recent IGTOA meeting included Dr. Peter Knights from WildAid, presenting an overview of the state of the Galapagos shark population, under pressure from a burgeoning Asian population with a taste for shark fin soup. We received an encouraging report card on IGTOAs first scholarship student, Stalin Puga, who is now attending the newly opened Galapagos branch of the University of San Francisco-Quito, supported by proceeds from our trips. Another was a sneak peek at a yet-to-be-released documentary, Galapagos at War. Very few people are aware of the American men and women who served our country during World War II by guarding the vital Pacific gateway to the Panama Canal from the tiny Galapagos island of Baltra. Thousands of modern-day Galapagos visitors now land on the same U.S.-built airstrip at Baltra.

IGTOA members landed here on May 11, when we took our meetings and field inspections to the source, the Galapagos Islands.

	Elegant trimaran M/S Lammer Law is SCUBA outfitted.

Some picture the Galapagos as a pristine wilderness, untouched wildlife living an idyllic Eden-like existence with nary a human footprint to be found. But there is another, human side of Galapagos, and we were treated to the best of it in the 5 days we spent in Puerto Ayora, the major population center of the islands. We inspected hotels on the island, such as the 5-star Royal Palm Resort, for those who prefer land-based adventures. Most importantly, I took time to inspect many yachts of all categoriesfrom the spacious luxury-cruise styles of the 100-passenger Galapagos Explorer 2 and M/V Santa Cruz, to the intimacy and swashbuckling allure of the 3-masted 16-passenger sailing yacht, Sagitta. For the SCUBA-minded, the 16-passenger, compressor-equipped trimaran, Lammer Law, is a fantastic way to see the Galapagos both above and below water!

Breezy bayside room at Red Mangrove Inn, Puerto Ayora.

We were guests of many wonderful hotels and restaurants, including the funky-cool Red Mangrove Inn, situated directly above the lapping tide of Academy Bay, offering kayaks and day tours of the nearby islands. The legendary Hotel Galapagos is a more casual approach, with its laid-back ambiance, honor-system bar, and breezy dining patio, complete with marine iguanas warming themselves on the lava-rock borders. Finally, we capped off the meetings on 15 May with dinner at the Angermeyer Point Restaurant, where we witnessed the lunar eclipse.

Voyage Aboard the 48-passenger M/Y Eclipse
Although we have a bias toward smaller yachts carrying up to 20 passengers, I accepted an invitation to voyage for 5 days aboard the 48-passenger M/Y Eclipse. We occasionally get requests for clients who prefer the space and stability of a larger vessel and the Eclipse is the best in the category of larger vessels. The Eclipse has recently been refurbished, and the cabins are fresh, airy and bright, decked out in cool shades of marine blue and celadon green. There are two passenger decks. Although there are four suites which are the lap of luxury, the majority of the cabins are of similar size , each very comfortable with either 2 beds or 1 large matrimonial size. Buffet lunches are served al fresco on the stern deck while the vessel is at anchor. One night of each voyage the crew puts on a musical revue. My favorite server, Gustavo, suddenly transformed into Richie Valens, belting out La Bamba and emphasizing each verse with a well-executed twirl of his guitar. A shy cabin boy, Ramiro, stepped up and amazed us all with heartfelt singing and decidedly un-shy footwork! After a few numbers, Abel the barman took over DJ duties and crew and passengers alike danced under the stars until the wee hours. Our 3 outstanding guides, Bitinia, Bolivar, and Cristina, had some very foot-sore hikers the following morning!

	Grade 3 naturalist guide Bolivar Sanchez, sharing his insights for nearly 15 years.

Galapagos Guides
Galapagos guides are rated according to the grading system that designates a Level 1, 2 or 3 (the best) guide. An important difference in yachts and prices on Galapagos tours is the level of guide. At Wildland Adventures, we only use first class yachts with Level 3 guides. Essentially, the difference in the levels is academic achievement, experience and language capabilities. Level 1 and level 2 guides have college education, some local training by the Charles Darwin Station and some speak a second language. However, a Level 3 guide will have at least 4 languages, and a minimum of 10 years guiding experience in the Islands. There is a world of difference in how you will experience the Galapagos with a Level 3 guide. I am proud that we work with the best and brightest guides in the Galapagos Islands.

The frigatebird emits an eerie, high-decibel song to attract the female.

Wild Surprises
Every trip to the Galapagos at any season brings its own surprises. On this trip in May, the male Magnificent Frigatebirds were staking out their territory amongst the jagged black lava rocks. Inflating their brilliant red throat pouch, and fully extending 4-6 wide glossy black wings, the frigatebird emits an eerie, high-decibel songall to attract the female frigatebird, cruising the thermals above. On another day dozens of blue-footed boobies dive-bombed the waters all around us in a feeding frenzy. Just below the surface, a pod of dolphins stirred up more and more grist for the feast, their dorsal fins periodically cutting the waves almost within arms reach. My last sunset onboard the Eclipse we were accompanied by a mother Brydes whale and her calf swimming alongside for at least hour. Toward the horizon, at least 4 other blow spouts raised vapor into the long golden light of the waning day.

Mainland Transit
All roads to Ecuador begin and end in Quito at 9,000 elevation in the Andes. Once back in the capital city, I dropped in to the Hotel Caf Cultura to visit my dear friend Laszlo Karolyi, proprietor. A graduate of the UCLA School of design, and former Galapagos guide, Laszlo is the perfect host for travelers going to or coming from the islands. The January 2003 issue of Conde Nast Traveler rates the Cafe Cultura one of the three best reasons to visit Quito. Laszlos own unique charm and talent create a warm, inviting, stimulating ambiance. On any given night, guests gather to swap stories and trade traveling tips... On this particular evening, Laszlo and I had dinner with Mr. Bill Twist, Director of the Pachamama Alliance, a non-profit organization dedicated to the legal and social advocacy of native peoples of Ecuadors Amazon region. We look forward to helping support the valuable and exciting work of the Pachamama Alliance.

	Papallacta's steaming thermal pools soothe the body and soul.

Three trips to Ecuador have familiarized me with the most charming accommodations in Quito. I have visited local villages, hiked trails and slept in the lovely haciendas of the Otavalo region. I recently stayed at Kapawi, a premier ecotourism lodge in the Amazon. Ive hiked the pristine cloud forests of Bellavista EcoLodge and Reserve just 2 hours from Quito, I soaked my travel-weary muscles in the steaming thermal pools of Papallacta Hot Springs, and rafted the Toachi River. After this trip, I have boarded virtually all of the first class small yachts we represent in the Galapagos. If you, too, have the desire to experience this remarkable region of the world, I look forward to your questions and to creating the perfect vacation experience for you!