My Alaska Adventure: SE Voyage, Glacier Bay, and Denali National Park

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	My Alaska Adventure: SE Voyage, Glacier Bay, and Denali National Park Whitney Farowich August 18, 2008

	Admire Alaska's wilderness

The day before I departed for Ketchikan, I spoke to Melanie, owner of the M/V Sundance, and, excited as I was to explore an area so full of wilderness, I got a little nervous. She told me the weather was absolutely terrible and the wind would not stop blowing! I packed my suitcase full of fleeces and rain gear, and prepared myself for a stormy adventure--only to discover the most beautiful places I have ever been. My trip was full of vast, open waters brimming with fish, shrimp, and crab, an endless array of geological history in the form of towering mountains and thunderous glaciers, and acre upon acre of untouched forest. Alaska's wildlife failed to remain elusive on my trip, and I enjoyed close-up sightings of graceful humpback whales, grizzly bears, sea lions, bald eagles, moose, and caribou almost daily.

Upon arrival at the Sundance in the morning, Melanie provided a heartwarming and sincere greeting along with the delightful and delicious smell of fresh-baked cinnamon rolls and hot coffee, with a bowl of cookie dough on the galley counter. It already felt like the family it would become on board. We had the day to explore downtown Ketchikan and to get our fishing licenses, so we set off to see this fishing port, known for its totem poles and historic Creek Street.

Art Gallery in Meyers Chuck

Out to sea early in the morning, I slept comfortably through the gentle rumblings of the engine; the Sundance is specially designed for smooth cruising. The first stop on the map was Meyers Chuck, a tiny village with a population of approximately sixty people. We were the only visitors to Meyers Chuck at that time, tucked far away from the large cruise ships. A truly intimate experience, Meyers Chuck greeted us at the end of the dock with a classic red phone booth and a public mailbox. A few women were gathered there, it looked to be the center of town! Partway along a well-worn trail was an art gallery full of distinctive local art such as handmade wooden bowls and some of the softest and tastefully designed wool socks I have ever seen. Meyers Chuck was also my first taste of the wild mountain blueberry. Slightly tart yet more flavorful, Alaska is full of wild blueberries to pick and taste at leisure.

The Sundance is a small ship, so it runs a schedule flexible for its guests. Each day we can select places that are completely remote, and choose from hiking, kayaking, fishing, beach walks, or any other kind of adventure. Exploring this great wilderness on your own agenda is the perfect opportunity to create your own stories, adventurous tales that are completely personal and unique. In the afternoon we picked a spot for a hike, opting for a bush whack up the creek in search of wildlife. Zack, our guide and deckhand, was enthusiastic and knowledgable about the history and wildlife of the forest. When looking up a mountainside, you can tell which parts have been logged and which haven't, just by the difference in the color and height of the trees. Inside the forest you can see ancient stumps covered in new flora, absorbing the nutrients of the stump to start a new collection of plant life. Several berry bushes later, we turned around to catch a stunning view of the Sundance from our perch on the hill. Happily worn out, I found it very easy to fall asleep in my cozy stateroom.

	Fresh local catch!

The next day I woke up to the exquisite scenery of Zamovia Straits. The lush forests, rocky shores, deep blue waters, and the open horizon with a promise of even more were a really great way to start the day. Melanie and Wil's dedicated Alaskan fishing experience helped us pick the perfect spot to set our shrimp and crab pots. We set pots almost every day; Zack continually promised us that Melanie's crab cakes were going to be well worth it. Docking the boat in Petersburg, the little Norway of Alaska, part of the group opted to stroll the streets and I joined a few others on a hike. Petersburg offers an authentic fishing port experience because it is not visited by the large cruise ships. It is quaintly decorated in the flowering style of Norwegian art, and the quiet streets feature family owned shops and art galleries. Those of us hiking selected a trail to explore another unique piece of Alaska far away from any hustle and bustle. Most of the trails in southeast Alaska are old hunting trails, many of them now rarely used for that same purpose. The U.S. Forest Service went in later and marked trees along these trails so that people could hike them with an added measure of safety to be able to find the way in and out. This time we discovered cloud berries, considered to be a delicacy because they can only grow in open meadows at certain altitudes. They were a lovely orange-coral color, and speckled the meadow we walked through, while we caught a great view of the LeConte glacier at the same time. At the end of the trail, we reached a lake populated with Alaska's only salamander. After the day's hike, the Sundance's sauna and hot showers were all too welcoming.

In Alaska, it seemed like the adventure had already begun by the time I woke up every day. Today several humpback whales were breeching just a short ways from the boat. After kayaking along the shoreline of a secluded cove, we pulled the boats up onto the rocky shore of a spit. We had found yet another spot unexplored by society, a little piece of time and space all to ourselves. Many of the boulders here were perfectly smooth, yet you could visibly see the layered strata, showcasing the geologic history of the rock. Breathing in the fresh air and enjoying the remoteness and grandeur of Alaska and Frederick Sound, I really noticed the many scents of Alaska. The fishing ports smell salty and fishy, but just the way you want, like a whiff of the ocean and fresh fish for dinner. Deep in the forest, you can small the perfected combination of trees, plants, and flowers, with a heaping dose of the freshest, cleanest air you can imagine. You can't capture this and bring it home, it's just part of the moment. At another beach near the boat, we scoured the shoreline looking for the remnants of an abandoned cannery. We found a small cabin nestled just offshore amid deep magenta fireweeds and fragrant pink roses. Blue skies topped the mountains that day, and this was the moment I fell in love with Alaska. The weather had been dry and comfortable so far, but this day outshone all the rest. Farther along the beach was a large rusty pressure cooker just off shore. It had toppled over on its side and proved that industrious operations had once occurred here, just to be covered up by time and nature. This cove perfectly showcased Alaska's peaceful solitude placed paradoxically against the monstrous strength of the land.

A pair of diving humpback whales

On the hunt for humpback whales, Melanie and Wil knew exactly where to find several pods of them congregated within a small radius. Abundant food sources such as kelp beds usually mean whales are nearby. Kayaks and skiff set out towards the loud puffs of breathing and we managed to get incredibly close to these graceful mammals. Every time a whale surfaces, it spends several minutes taking deep breaths and then does a deep dive, lifting its tail high above the water. The pod all goes together, so you can expect four or five tails all to rise within moments of each other. Once this has happened, the humpback will not resurface for several minutes, so it's time to look for another pod. It's nearly impossible to use words to convey the wonders of watching these whales at such a close distance; it truly seems as if the whales acknowledged our presence but are too gentle and friendly to cause any harm. I believe they enjoy enchanting us, almost as much as we do.

At Red Bluff, we kayaked up the base of a waterfall and then rode the current back out for a bit of a thrill. There are natural hot springs in this remote cove, and you can choose to take the short trail to the springs, or soak in the privacy of the built-in tubs at the waterfront. These are closed in but still offer open views of the cove and waterfall. The boat sits here for the night, so many of my traveling companions opted to wake up early and begin the day with an all natural soak.

	The docks in Sitka

Our final day was morning cruising through more spectacular scenery into the fishing town of Sitka. The sky was blue once again, revealing the trees and snow-capped peak of Mt. Edgecombe in the distance, highlighted by ornate fishing boats at the docks in front of us. Although Sitka is still visited by cruise ships, it maintains much of its rich Alaskan flavor with Native and Russian culture, totem poles, fresh seafood, mountains, artwork, and friendly locals.