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Darien Explorer Trek
Hernan Arauz
July 28, 2008 |
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Darien Explorer Trek, July 2008
Wildland Adventure Report
By: Hernan Arauz, Expedition Guide
I am happy to report the successful completion of the July 13-25 Darien Explorer Trek. To put it shortly, it was the best one I have led so far. In terms of safety, organization, weather, operational experience and above all, staff performance it was a model operation, resulting in 100% complete client satisfaction. The expectations of all clients were surpassed many times over.
Pamela called it her trip of a lifetime. She was one of the most pleasant, easy and enthusiastic trekkers I have ever had. Solid hiker, always smiling. When you get such comments you know the client is satisfied beyond her wildest expectations. And, Martha Bowen at the end wanted to apply for manager of the Cana Field Station!!
Neither of them climbed to Pirre Tent Camp, so I stayed with them and took them for walks around the Cana Field Station. The day before yesterday I had them both climb all of the way up Pirre Mountain so that at least they could see above the great expanse. They were very thankful and appreciative of the raw beauty of Darien and were very pleased.
Every meal was totally tasty, nutritious and plentiful, it was my pleasure in every dinner to open a bottle of Malbec from my little cava. Not to mention having gummy bears and trail mix handy.
In El Real we had the best Afro-Darienite bullerengue ever performed by Doa Lola. It was a celebration of their own, not a show. Moments before the dance was to begin, a comparsa from the local municipality passed by to spark the lively nite. They danced until midnight after buco beers. There's something special about a long neck Atlas beer in El Real !!!! Pamela called it the best party she has ever had.
We saw anteaters, 4 species of primates, many cool frogs and many birds. The waterfall at Rancho Fro was awesome. The forest was at its best. The change in the itinerary of driving from Panama City was a great addition. They see it all, from what the rainforest once was to what is still the most pristine. And yes, the mud was brutal. Going out of Boca de Cupe was a true test of jungle endurance. But always at the end of the day there was a cool river, a welcomed rest, and awesome chow.
Last night I invited them for a farewell dinner at my home, where I had the honor of sharing the table with them and our key expedition staff: Segundo Sugasti, master field camping manager, Faustino Gmezthe, legendary Viejo Fao veteran of countless Darien expeditions with Wildland, and Deybis Fonseca, my assistant and trainee Naturalist Guide. I wanted to congratulate them all for an excellent performance. Also present were the other two expedition members, Rebecca from Australia and Benjamin from New Zealand, both very fine people and adding youth to the expedition.
I showed them old maps, family photographs, Spanish swords, old Darien stories from the first trailblazers, the works of Reina and Amado [Hernan's parents], to Leoncico of Darien, Balboa's battle dog !! They were thrilled. We had a major cookout with open bar!! Even Crunchy my Rottweiler and Morgan the Bassett Hound joined in.
I want to thank Tatiana Perez, our local Operations Manager, and Larissa Olmedo, Special Accounts for their 100 % efficient office support. The first thing Pam received in her hands just off the plane getting back was her prized Embera basket nicely wrapped up !!!
I want to specially thank the vital Cana Field Staff. Chinche, Pozo, Jose, Pedro, Urrutia and the ANAM personnel at Rancho Fro and Cruce de Mono Stations, old jungle guardians like Alipio, Henry and the legendary Chicho Bristan from El Real.
And thank you Wildland. Pam told me the letter of confidence you sent her about travel in the Darien made the difference !! She felt quite reassured.
It was only at the end that I told them about the old legend of the Gulf of San Miguel that reads
Cuando Vayas al Darien, encomiendate a Mara
Pues en sus manos esta la entrada,
Y en las de Dios la salida
When you travel to the Darien, you're in the hands of Maria...
In her hands is the entry, and in God's the exit.
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