Southern Africa

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	Southern Africa By Nicole Harrison May 15, 2002

	Table Mountain towers over the bustling waterfront of Capetown.

Nicole Harrison, African Program Director, traveled throughout Southern Africa in May 2002 to inspect popular places she has not yet been and to meet with new, smaller and more specialized guides, lodges and outfitters. The purpose of her trip was to develop a repertoire of local lodges and specialized regional outfitters we can offer our travelers in order to give you the best safari experience that meets your style and interests. Our goal is for you to connect with the most authentic, personable and skilled safari guides, especially including some smaller, family-owned operations and those working within indigenous communities to integrate our safari programs with local people and wildlife conservation.

Capetown, South Africa

Fifteen hours and several in-flight meals later, I arrived in Capetown in the rain. This surprised me, since I was thinking hot and dry. Ahhhh...but 'Africa' weather does not apply to the Cape, which has sixty of its own microclimates! Yes, you read correctly, sixty microclimates in one small area. They joke around here that you can have all four of the Cape's seasons in one day. My pick up was waiting for me with a big sign and off we went to the wine country of South Africa. The oldest vineyard in Africa is in Capetown and once belonged to one family. The Constantia Valley is a lush fertile region to the West of the city. It is now cultivated under the control of five estates, each specializing in their own type of wine. The estate of Constantia Uitsig (pronounced ate sigch) has some of the best views of the valley and surrounding mountains. There are 16 cottages on the estate and two restaurants that are considered among the best in the country. I strolled the grounds with the charming Lianne and Nicki. Constantia Uitsig is a retreat about 20 minutes from the city center that would appeal to people interested in serenity, romance, wine, fine cuisine and relaxation.

Stroll through the gardens and vineyards of Constantia valley.

Beginning my whirlwind tour of South Africa, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe, I checked into my next hotel, the Cape Grace, on the spectacular waterfront district in Capetown. The waterfront has recently been developed to attract local visitors and tourists for shopping and cultural activities. Lots of shops ranging from hand made African crafts to The Gap. Pretty amazing to see such a range of shopping. Of course, I bought nothing, as shopping is not one of my strong suits. Anyway, my hotel is in the middle of all of this-with views of the people on the waterfront, or on the other side, a quiet yacht club. This hotel is just the right mix of comfort, practicality and elegance. Nothing is too showy-you are comfortable when you sit in the overstuffed chairs in the lobby or library. You are just as likely to see people in khakis and polo shirts as people wearing the latest European fashions. The staff attends to each detail with quiet professionalism and never seemed ruffled-even if a huge group is checking in, which is what happened when I showed up that afternoon.

The Cape Grace was not ready for me, so I deposited my bags and caught the last ferry to Robben Island-the prison where Mandela and countless others were held and tortured for 18 years. Fascinating site with a lot more history than Mandela's story. The place has been synonymous with misery since 1653! The tour was very thorough, outlining all of the uses of the island since it was settled-leper colony, battle station, prison, now living museum. The bus tour around the island is a bit sedentary, but very interesting. We only got to walk the last 40 minutes through the prison where you actually got to see Mandela's cell and the barren walls that kept brilliant men separate from the country they were trying to save. The place is both uplifting and sad at the same time. Uplifting, because these men were able to improve their conditions and not break their spirits. Sad, because so much humiliation and suffering was experienced there. It is a moving experience and a worthwhile exploration into some of the history and politics of this diverse nation.

	African penguins are endemic to South African waters.

Today, diversity took on new meaning. Eleven languages are official in South Africa. Most people in this area speak English, Afrikaans, and Xhosa (which has clicks in it and is very hard to master)--to start with...amazing! One of my guides spoke six and was working on more. There are people of every shade of white, brown, and black here. South Africa is truly a rainbow nation of all colors, creeds, and heritage. Diversity does not only apply to the people. This landscape is full of a myriad of vegetation and (as already mentioned) climates. Fynbos (pronounced fane boss), a plant with very thin small leaves, has over 8000 species and is only found in this part of the world! We saw different kinds everywhere-Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, atop Table Mountain, and all the way down the coast to the Cape of Good Hope. This vegetation is vital to the ecosystems of the Cape, as it is resistant to the extremes (heat & wind) of the weather here. During my many little tours today (I was trying to do it all in two days), I saw a surprising variety of wildlife-hyrax, ostrich, African penguins, Cape Fur Seals, and bontebok (a five colored antelope similar to Topi and Blesbok). The Cape holds so many wonders! Very dramatic scenery combined with a small town feel make for a perfect start or end of a safari. I hiked, went on a boat ride to a seal colony, rode a high-speed gondola, stood on the Cape of Good Hope and absorbed as much of this exciting little city as possible. To do Capetown any justice, at least three nights would be recommended. If travelers want to stay longer, there are plenty of activities to choose from throughout the region. For now, I will have to be content with two whirlwind days-wishing I had more.

I am off to Botswana tomorrow (4:45 am!) for a walking tour of the Linyanti region just north of the Okavango delta. The city life is great, but life in the bush is better!