South Africa

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	South Africa By Anne Morrison May 1, 2003

	The welcoming committee greets us at Kwazakele.

This spring I traveled to Eastern Cape, the poorest province in South Africa, to study at the University of Port Elizabeth and conduct research on sustainable tourism development. This field study was the culmination of my African Studies degree from the University of Washington, and gave me an opportunity to explore some of the country. As one of Wildland Adventures Africa Program Directors for over seven years, I am well aware that South Africa is a large and diverse nation, yet there seem to be only a handful of popular tourist stops on most itineraries: Kruger NP, Cape Town, the Winelands, Garden Route, or Sun City. While preparing for my trip, and during my stay there, I was amazed at how much more this vibrant and diverse country has to offer!

The following Trip Review represents a few of my personal highlights. Many of these places are located in the malaria-free southern zone of the country, a big plus for family travel. So as not to repeat myself again and again, I will just say that except for Port Elizabeth (where I lived more or less on my own with my 11-year old daughter who accompanied me throughout the trip), the staff and guides at each place I visited were absolutely top-notch in their service, friendliness, care and concern for their guests. They epitomize the highest standards of genuine, personal warmth and professional responsibility expected by Wildland Adventures travelers.

Port Elizabeth
I spent four weeks at the university in this lively, expanding coastal city that often serves as a start or end point for the Garden Route. There are many hotels and restaurants along the waterfront, a great little museum, lively craft market and beautiful sandy beaches facing the Indian Ocean. Its a shame that most travelers just pass through this region, as there are so many things to see and do in the vicinity: historical and township tours, coastal parks, mountain valleys, hiking trails, and wildlife reserves.

Township marketplaces are vital to South Africas informal economy.

Township Tourism
As part of our study program we visited outlying neighborhoods to learn about the modern history of South Africa including important township sites. Township tourism first began in the early 1980s when human rights activists and social science researchers needed access to black neighborhoods during times of restricted movement. Today it serves as a way to enlighten travelers to contemporary South African history and urban culture. A real city tour in Port Elizabeth takes you beyond the white neighborhoods and colonial center into the townships where most people live, and illuminates the fascinating black intellectual and activist history of Port Elizabeth where the ANC began. Our guide, a resident of Kwazakele township, offered much insight into the daily challenges of ordinary people, including water, housing, education and employment shortages. Tours include stops for tea in a school that is funded through tourism partnerships, a local craft studio, and/or dinner and drinks at a shebeen (bar). This type of community-oriented tourism is mutually beneficial to hosts and guests and widely welcomed in many townships across the country. I would encourage travelers in South Africa to visit at least one township, as each has its unique history and interesting sites like any city.

	Elephants have returned to their native habitat at Addo.

Addo Elephant National Park
Stretching along the dense valley bushveld of the Sundays River region in Eastern Cape, this expanding park will soon encompass over a million acres of terrestrial and marine habitats from the Indian Ocean to the Little Karoo highlands, containing five of South Africas seven major vegetation zones. The park was started in 1931 to protect a local elephant population that had dwindled to only 11 individuals. This population has since grown to over 350 and counting, and is one of the major wildlife restoration success stories of South Africa. Many other species are also present in good numbers throughout the park. Furthermore, in the near future, when Addo expands to the coastline, it will become the first park in Africa to offer the Big Seven! While many parks and lodges promote the Big Five, elephant, lion, rhino, leopard and buffalo, the parks authority at Addo are proud to add whales and great white sharks to their game viewing list! There is a variety of overnight accommodations to choose from, or the park can be enjoyed as a day trip from Port Elizabeth (1 hr drive each way).

Shamwari Game Reserve
Shamwari is a an extraordinary private reserve established in 1992 on a vast tract of previously depleted and degraded farmland. It has won numerous awards over the years for its efforts to restore native flora and fauna in a massive conservation and restoration project. Shamwari is now a world-class safari destination with excellent accommodations, open-air land rovers and a large population of re-introduced species previously native to this region including elephant, black rhino, Cape buffalo, wildebeest, lion, cheetah, brown hyena, giraffe, bushbuck and others. Activities consist of game drives and visits to Khaya Lendaba African Arts and Cultural Village and the Born Free Foundation, an education center and sanctuary for previously captive and exploited African animals. There is a wide variety of accommodations around this malaria-free game reserve including Riverdene Lodge and the Long Lee Manor which is particularly well-suited for families.

Snorkeling pools abound along the coastline at Rocktail Bay.

Rocktail Bay Lodge
We have represented Rocktail Bay for many years, but this was my first opportunity to visit. The exquisitely beautiful, relaxing coastal resort is located on the Indian Ocean in the Maputaland Coastal Forest and Marine Reserve. Activities center around nature walks in the forest and isolated coastline, snorkeling, diving, and 4x4 drives to places of natural beauty. Local wildlife includes leatherback and loggerhead turtles, whales, dolphins, reedbuck, duiker, hippos, and a plethora of birds and small creatures. Egg-laying sea turtles are present from October through February, and whales are sighted from May through November. Although I visited just prior to whale season, Rocktail Bay was a fantastic place to stop with my daughter, take off our shoes in the golden sand, snorkel and enjoy some down time together. Accommodations are in private twin-bedded wood and thatch chalets located in a Natal mahogany forest next to the beach. A two-bedroom chalet is available for families. At night you can hear the gentle, rhythmic roar of the ocean, and in the morning awaken to incredibly lovely bird songs. Highly recommended for all travelers to South Africa! My only regret is that I didnt stay longer at Rocktail Bay Lodge. Two or more nights would be essential to reap the benefits of such a peaceful, paradisiacal oasis.

South Africa Cultural Revival
South Africa is in the thralls of a powerful cultural revival stimulated by the liberation from apartheid rule. Pride in African heritage is reflected throughout South Africa, and is one of the great strengths in its developing tourism industry. At the same time, cultural heritage is one of the most vulnerable and sensitive issues around which to create commercial ventures. In order to be truly successful, cultural tourism endeavors must be designed, implemented, regulated and monitored largely by the local communities themselves. My trip has helped us establish direct contacts with numerous local communities who are excited to invite us into their villages and homes.

	A Zulu craft shop next to the Old Trading Post.

Simunye Zulu Lodge
Simunye (meaning we are one) is a lodge and cultural enclave located in a peaceful valley in the lush hill country of KwaZulu-Natal, and has been designated National Heritage Site status. Upon arrival at the Old Trading Post, perched on top of a giant hill with magnificent views, guests park their vehicle in a secured garage and begin an hour-long descent into the valley by horseback or ox-cart, escorted by Zulu hosts. This journey helps visitors leave behind the modern hurried world of cars and electricity to enter the more relaxed traditional world of horseback, campfires and candle-light. Final passage is across a small river, leading to the main lodge and dining area. Upon arrival, guests are assigned to either of two settlement styles. The six-room pioneer settlement is built into a steep hillside, handcrafted with river stones and mortar. Across the river, adjacent to the Kwa Vulin Hlahla village where the host family lives, is the Zulu settlement where guests stay in five contemporary Zulu huts. Each room has been uniquely handcrafted by Zulu architects using all local materials with appropriately aesthetic interior design. There is no electricity in the valley, but warm water for bathing is available in the rooms using small propane water heaters.

Most activities at Simunye take place outdoors, and are all cultural and intended to give the visitor a general background in Zulu history and tradition. Our small group was escorted to Kwa Vulin Hlahla village to meet the host family, share a jug of Zulu beer and roasted meat in a traditional welcoming ceremony, and learn about traditional costumes and dress codes. Guests learn about the importance of cattle, how Zulu beer and maize meal are made, traditional marriage protocol, use of various tools and weapons, and watch a demonstration of Zulu stick fighting. In the evening torch-bearing dancers and musicians cross the river on a wooden bridge and put on a spirited yet simple traditional dance performance for the guests. A small craft souvenir display is set up in the morning outside the Zulu village as guests depart for their horseback or ox-cart ascent back to the Trading Post.

Traditional welcoming ceremony includes a pot of Zulu beer.

Although Simunye Zulu Lodge is largely a staged tourism experience, it has managed to maintain a remarkably personalized and authentic feel because of its relatively small size, its isolation from motor vehicles and modern amenities, and the personalities of local families. It employs many people from the region, both young and old, as guides and interpreters, horse and oxen handlers, kitchen and maintenance crews, dancers and musicians, and serves as a training venue and an outlet for craftspeople, farmers and artisans to sell their wares. The hospitality and playfulness exemplified by the Simunye staff is authentic and exemplary in the context of responsible eco-tourism.

New itineraries for South Africa
Every place I visited in South Africa was unique and wonderful in its own way. There is such variety of cultures, ecosystems, wildlife and activities, all in one country! Besides those places listed above I also visited Cape Town, Kwandwe, Ndumo Wilderness Camp, Milimani Game Sanctuary, and Phinda Forest Reserve. Now that Ive returned home and completed my studies, we are in the process of designing new trips in South Africa offering a combination of cultural and wildlife experiences. In addition to the Bush and Beach Safari we currently offer, we are working on an itinerary for families that is exclusively in malaria-free zones, and one or two overland and/or fly-in safaris. These will be available soon. We already design custom South Africa itineraries for Wildland Adventures travelers and my trip gives us even more options to offer you. Give us a call to discuss your plans!