Set foot on land at the little known island of Satonda with its stunning crater lake and beautiful coral gardens. Located just a couple of miles off the north-west coast of Sumbawa, Satonda is what remained of an extinct volcano, when nearby Mount Tambora erupted in 1815. It was the biggest volcanic eruption in the collective memory of mankind, much larger than Krakatoa. With an estimated volume of 160 cubic kilometers of rocks and ash ejected from the volcano the following year became known as the "year without a summer" because of the effect on North American and European weather. A highlight of our visit to Satonda is the sight of many thousands of flying foxes that commute at dusk from the island to feed on the mainland, returning before first light the next day. Immediately after sunset, Ombak Putih leaves on a course due West.